In the swinging 1960s and 70s, Barbara Hulanicki disrupted the conservative norms of the fashion world, creating a space that was as radical as it was stylish. Now aged 87, Hulanicki reflects on the creation of Biba, a brand that transformed fashion, introduced a new way of shopping, and became a cultural touchstone.

Biba: A Haven for Rebels

“Biba attracted troublemakers or people who liked to make trouble,” Hulanicki recalls. Founded in the early 1960s, Biba’s influence grew rapidly, with its final incarnation being the seven-story Big Biba on Kensington High Street in London. Big Biba wasn’t just a clothing store—it offered fashion, homeware, a food hall, a beauty salon, and even a rooftop garden complete with flamingos and penguins.

The inclusive and playful nature of Biba was a far cry from the rigid, class-based fashion world of the time. Biba embraced the freedom and egalitarian spirit of the 1960s, catering to the youth who wanted to express themselves without conforming to outdated social norms.

A Unique Aesthetic: Mixing Retro and Modern

Biba’s design aesthetic may have seemed nostalgic, drawing from Edwardian, Victorian, and later Art Deco styles, but Hulanicki understood how to make these old influences feel fresh. The brand’s interiors were filled with Orientalist wallpaper in opulent shades, antique coat stands, and furniture that echoed the curvaceous lines of Art Nouveau. The boutiques felt more like eclectic lounges than traditional stores, inviting customers to lounge on velvet cushions while browsing affordable, cutting-edge garments.

Biba’s aesthetic was radical at the time, as the 1960s had leaned heavily into futuristic, space-age design. Yet Hulanicki’s blend of old-world charm and modern affordability made Biba a fashion revolution. The brand’s visuals featured willowy models with dramatic sooty eyes, often framed by 1930s-style cloche hats, feather boas, and leopard print—one of Biba’s signature motifs.

A Social Revolution: Feminism, Liberation, and Style

More than just a fashion label, Biba became a symbol of the radical social changes of the 1960s and 70s, including feminism, gay liberation, and the civil rights movement. Its low prices made high fashion accessible to the masses, and its atmosphere welcomed everyone—from rebellious youth to LGBTQ+ communities—who were pushing back against the establishment.

When the far-left group The Angry Brigade bombed Biba’s third boutique in 1971, claiming it symbolized women’s enslavement to fashion, they missed the point. Biba was about self-expression and freedom, offering an alternative to the rigid, consumerist-driven fashion of the day. For Hulanicki, the joy of running Biba came from fostering a sense of community rather than turning a profit.

The Biba Phenomenon

At its peak, Biba became a cultural phenomenon, drawing not only locals but also visitors from across Europe. The brand’s glamorous yet affordable offerings were irresistible. Hulanicki’s approach to retail was highly unconventional, welcoming shoplifters as a sign of success. “If you like it, steal it,” she once quipped. It was her way of gauging what styles would become hits.

In the 1960s, a gingham pink mini-dress designed by Hulanicki became a runaway hit, signaling a turning point for the brand. By the 1970s, Hollywood glamour was back in style, and Biba fully embraced the aesthetic, with models like Twiggy showcasing the brand’s satin, bias-cut dresses and towering platform shoes.

Biba’s influence extended beyond clothing. Its cosmetics line, launched in 1970, challenged the limited beauty standards of the time. The brand was among the first to offer makeup for Black skin, inspired by the Jamaican women who frequented the stores. Biba also introduced a makeup line for men, aligning with the androgyny of the glam rock era, and counted David Bowie among its regular clientele.

Legacy and Ongoing Influence

Though Big Biba eventually closed, the brand’s influence on the retail and fashion industry is undeniable. Hulanicki’s vision of creating an all-encompassing lifestyle store that combined fashion, homeware, and beauty has inspired modern retailers like Anthropologie and Zara Home.

Biba continues to captivate today’s fashion lovers. London’s Fashion and Textile Museum recently hosted an exhibition, The Biba Story: 1964-1975, drawing record numbers. The brand’s history is also commemorated in a new book, Biba: The Fashion Brand that Defined a Generation, co-written by Hulanicki.

Breaking Barriers, Creating a Movement

Biba’s enduring legacy is rooted in Hulanicki’s ability to break rules and challenge the fashion establishment. She democratized style, offering high fashion at accessible prices and fostering a sense of community in her boutiques. Biba wasn’t just about clothes; it was about embracing individuality and self-expression during a time of immense cultural change.

From affordable glamour to gender-inclusive cosmetics, Hulanicki’s Biba remains a testament to how fashion can reflect and influence societal shifts. Even at 87, Barbara Hulanicki’s trailblazing career continues to inspire new generations to think outside the box and use fashion as a form of rebellion, creativity, and inclusion.